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杜嘉皮酒庄热弗雷香贝坦老藤干红葡萄酒2020

Domaine Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits, France

WA:91

Domaine Dugat-Py 是勃艮第 Gevrey-Chambertin 村的葡萄酒生产商。它以其在Charmes-Chambertin 和Chambertin 等Grand Cru中用黑比诺酿制的红葡萄酒而闻名。它还生产一系列的Premier Cru葡萄酒和来自Corton-Charlemagne葡萄园的Grand Cru霞多丽。

1979 年，Bernard Dugat 和Jocelyne Py 联姻创建了该酒庄，将两组葡萄园结合在一起。 Dugat-Py 在几个 Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru葡萄园中拥有地块，并且还在 Vosne-Romanée、Pommard 和 Chassagne-Montrachet 的地块中生产Village-Level和Premier Cru葡萄酒。酒庄的葡萄藤平均树龄为 65 年，Grand Cru中的一些葡萄藤的树龄达到 90 年。

Domaine Dugat-Py 的葡萄酒在可追溯到 11 世纪的酒窖中在橡木桶中陈酿长达 24 个月。与 Gevrey-Chambertin 的大多数生产商相比，葡萄的采摘开始于本季相对较早。酿酒厂采用最少的干预措施，没有发酵后的温度控制。鉴于酒庄的规模和声望，产量很小——每年发行约 300 瓶。

Aromas of cherries, wild plums, warm spices and loamy soil introduce the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and vibrant wine that's fleshy and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a tangy spine of acidity. Not bad for what Loïc Dugat-Py describes as a "mise en bouche" to begin our tasting. The 2020 is another brilliant vintage for a domaine that has been on one of the hottest hot streaks in contemporary Burgundy in recent years. Vibrant flavors, beautifully refined tannins, striking concentration and moderate alcohols are the order of the day, and these young wines seem to unite the charm of 2019 and the seriousness of 2018 (at least at this address, which produced some of the wines of the vintage) with supplemental reserves of energy that mark them out as very special indeed. Clearly, the domaine's innovative viticulture, emphasizing high, unhedged canopies and biodynamic preparations, with soils cultivated to encourage deep rooting, meant the vines were better equipped to resist the heat and drought in 2020 than many of their neighbors (something a walk through Gevrey a few days before harvest 2020 enabled me to see for myself). 

2020年份的 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 散发着樱桃、野李子、温暖香料和肥沃土壤的香气，酒体中等至饱满，口感丝滑且充满活力，果肉丰盈，风味集中，单宁如粉末般细腻，酸度清爽。对于被 Loïc Dugat-Py 称为“开胃小菜”的品鉴开场来说，这款酒表现不俗。2020年是该酒庄又一个辉煌的年份，近年来，该酒庄一直是勃艮第当代最炙手可热的酒庄之一。鲜明的风味、精致优雅的单宁、惊人的集中度和适中的酒精度是这一年份的特点，这些年轻的葡萄酒似乎结合了2019年份的魅力和2018年份的严肃性（至少在这个酒庄，它酿造了一些该年份的顶级酒款），并带有额外的能量储备，使其显得尤为特别。显然，该酒庄创新的葡萄栽培方法，强调高而不修剪的树冠和生物动力制剂，以及鼓励根系深入土壤的耕作方式，使得其葡萄藤比许多邻近葡萄园更能抵御2020年的高温和干旱（2020年收获前几天在吉夫瑞的实地考察让我亲眼见证了这一点）。