书名：Women Dressing Women: A Lineage of Female Fashion Design / 女性为女性着装：女性时尚设计的传承
定价：360.0
ISBN：9781588397201
作者：Mellissa Huber
版次：1
出版时间：2023-11

内容提要：

题 目：Women Dressing Women: A Lineage of Female Fashion Design / 女性为女性着装：女性时尚设计的传承

作 者：Mellissa Huber

出 版：Yale University Press，2023

装 帧：精装，212页

尺 寸：23.1*29.8 cm

 

 

本书探索了由女性创造并为女性而创造的时尚所产生的持久影响，追溯了来自70多位女性设计师的历史和概念谱系——从18世纪法国那些不知名的裁缝，到当今引领时尚方向的当代设计师——她们全部来自服装学院令人惊叹的永久藏品。书中富有洞察力的文章探讨了匿名性、可见性、能动性和缺失/遗漏等概念，揭示了女性在时尚领域的影响力，既突出了知名设计师，也挖掘了被遗忘的历史。本书介绍的时装品牌包括Mad Carpentier、Elsa Schiaparelli和Madeleine Vionnet，美国设计师如Ann Lowe、Claire McCardell和Isabel Toledo，以及当代设计师如Rei Kawakubo、Anifa Mvuemba、Simone Rocha和Iris van Herpen。专为本书拍摄的新照片，通过光影和反射将服装与四篇主题文章联系起来，这些文章将作品置于更广泛的社会背景中，同时，一张折叠式的家族谱系图追溯了书中特色设计师之间的联系。这本迟来的关于女性主导设计的著作，对于任何对时尚历史感兴趣的人来说都是必读之作。

 

Exploring the enduring impact of fashions created by and for women, this book traces a historical and conceptual lineage across more than 70 female designers— from unidentified dressmakers in eighteenth-century France, to contemporary makers who are leading the direction of fashion today—all culled from the incredible permanent collection of The Costume Institute. Insightful essays that consider notions of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission reveal women’s impact within the field of fashion, highlighting celebrated designers and forgotten histories alike. The publication includes fashion houses such as Mad Carpentier, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet, American makers like Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, along with contemporary designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, Simone Rocha, and Iris van Herpen. New photography, created especially for this volume, uses light, shadow, and reflection to connect the garments to the four themes of the essays, which situate the works within a larger social context, and a fold-out genealogical chart traces connections between the makers featured. This overdue look at women-led design will be essential reading for anyone interested in the history of fashion.

 

Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press

 

Exhibition Schedule:

 

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

(December 7, 2023–March 3, 2024)