题 目：Superfine: Tailoring Black Style / 超精细剪裁：非裔风尚图谱

作 者：Monica L. Miller

出 版：Metropolitan Museum of Art，2025

装 帧：精装，372页

语种：英文

尺 寸：22.8*30.5 cm

这场关于黑人绅士时尚及其在文艺中呈现的探索，揭示了这种辨识度高又流变不居的风格传统——从启蒙运动时期的欧洲起源，直至当代艺术与时尚领域——所蕴含的鲜活而复杂的遗产。

《超精细剪裁》深入梳理了跨越三个世纪的黑人风尚史：从大胆精致的着装风格、挑衅式的华丽演绎，到其对黑人男性气质的深刻塑造。本书追溯了这种风格的起源——十八世纪欧洲豪门中强加于黑人仆役的制服，历经哈莱姆文艺复兴与民权运动时期成为艺术主张与政治宣言的载体，直至演变为当今嘻哈美学与流行街头服饰的核心元素。各章节着重解析绅士风格跨越时空的共振特质：世界主义气质、戏谑式演绎、伪装艺术、从容风范、自我主权与在场意识。书中呈现约1700年至今的服饰、配饰与艺术作品的全新影像记录，并汇集当代时尚、文学与艺术领域对这些物件的多元解读。从当代著名设计师力作到早期匿名匠人的匠心独运，这本引人入胜的著作生动展现了黑人风格仲裁者如何运用绅士美学的标志性工具——服饰、仪态与智慧——打破边界，重塑文化与社会现实。

This exploration of Black dandy fashion and its representation in art and literature highlights the vibrant, complicated legacy of a recognizable yet constantly shifting style, from its origins in Enlightenment Europe to the contemporary art and fashion worlds

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style explores the history of a style characterized by bold, refined fashions, provocative excess, and a defining relationship with Black masculinity across three centuries. This publication interrogates the origins of the style as an imposed uniform for Black servants in wealthy eighteenth-century European households, through its use as a statement of artistic and political agency during the Harlem Renaissance and the Civil Rights Movement, to the present day, when dandyism is also an essential component of hip-hop aesthetics and popular street wear. Sections highlight qualities of dandy style that resonate across time, including cosmopolitanism, caricature, disguise, ease, ownership, and presence. The book features new photography of garments, accessories, and artworks from about 1700 to the present, as well as current voices in fashion, literature, and art writing on these objects. Including works by celebrated contemporary fashion designers, as well as early designs by anonymous makers, this engaging publication demonstrates how Black style arbiters used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to break down boundaries and fashion new cultural and social realities.

Exhibition Schedule:

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

(May 10–October 26, 2025)