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彭寿酒庄蒙特-路伊森莫雷圣丹尼一级园老藤干白葡萄酒 Domaine Ponsot Morey St Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants

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彭寿酒庄蒙特-路伊森莫雷圣丹尼一级园老藤干白葡萄酒 Domaine Ponsot Morey St Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants 商品图0
彭寿酒庄蒙特-路伊森莫雷圣丹尼一级园老藤干白葡萄酒 Domaine Ponsot Morey St Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants 商品缩略图0

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彭寿酒庄蒙特-路伊森莫雷圣丹尼一级园老藤干白葡萄酒
Domaine Ponsot Morey St Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants

年份:2012
酒庄:彭寿酒庄
葡萄品种:阿里高特
产区:夜丘,莫雷圣丹尼一级园

当彭寿酒庄成功争取到一项裁决,允许其使用被 AOC 斥为 “次级品种” 的葡萄,从Monts Luisants一级园酿造白葡萄酒时,勃艮第法定产区体系的精妙之处再次显现。这款酒不同于我试过的任何一款阿里高特(Aligoté)。
通常阿里高特被用作与黑加仑调配传统基尔(Kir)开胃酒的首选葡萄品种,而庞索这款适合陈年的版本则值得特别关注。
该葡萄园大部分植株种植于 1911 年,直到 2011 年才获准用阿里高特重新栽种耗尽的葡萄藤。
Alex强调,这款酒在年轻时与霞多丽的差异较小,但随着陈年便会展现独特个性。相较于霞多丽的蜂蜜与坚果风味,它会逐渐发展出深度、香料气息与矿物感。

品酒笔记:
“该葡萄园 80% 的历史地块于 1911 年种植阿里高特。由于年轻葡萄藤达到了一级园品质,酒标正面已从‘老藤(Vieilles Vignes)’中去掉了‘特选(Très)’字样。这相当诚实,因为大部分酒液仍来自百年老藤。此酒香气明亮,以柠檬青柠为主调,梨、蜜瓜、李杏与磨碎香料的层次风味赋予微奶油口感迷人的回味感,矿物感突出且清新,现已令人难以抗拒。”
—克里斯汀・坎特伯雷(Christine Canterbury,《蒂姆・阿特金勃艮第特别报告》95 分)

“80% 葡萄来自著名的 1911 年种植区。香气极佳,老藤特质掩盖了阿里高特可能的生青味。口感纯净浓郁,尾段带有石灰岩的清冽感,余味出色。毫无笨重感,是蒙路易桑的优秀年份。收尾带一丝杏仁膏气息。”
—贾斯珀・莫里斯 MW(Jasper Morris,《勃艮第内幕》92-95 分)

“2020 年份莫雷 - 圣丹尼(Morey-Saint-Denis)一级园蒙路易桑园干白散发柑橘油、糖渍柠檬与新鲜烤面包的香气,酒体中等至饱满,紧实而富有张力,风格活泼集中,以悠长的矿物感收尾。”
—威廉・凯利(William Kelley,《葡萄酒倡导家》92-94 分)

Vintage: 2020
Winery:  Domaine Ponsot
Grape:  Aligote
Region:Côte de Nuits,Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

The nuances of Burgundy’s appellation system once again come into play when Ponsot secured a ruling allowing them to produce a 1er Cru white from the 1er Cru Monts Luisants vineyard from what was lambasted as a secondary grape variety by the AOC. This is unlike any other Aligoté I’ve tried.

Where Aligoté is typical the favoured mixer with cassis to make the traditional Kir apperitif, Ponsot’s ageworthy version demands attention.

Most of the vineyard was planted in 1911. It took until 2011 for permission for to replant any exhausted vines with Aligoté.

Alex, highlighted that it is less differentiated from Chardonnay in its youth, yet unmistakable as it ages. Depth, spice and minerality build here compared to honey and nutty characrters for Chardonnay.

Characteristics:
“The historic portion of this vineyard – 80% – was planted with Aligoté in 1911. Since the younger vines achieved a quality level worthy of the Premier Cru status, the “Très” has been removed from the “Vieilles Vignes” on the front label. That’s admirably honest since such a substantial portion of the wine still is from century-year-old vines. The wine is bright and focused on the lemon-lime scented nose. Lovely and layered flavors of pear, honeydew melon, pluot and grated spices give the lightly creamy palate a compelling moreish-ness. Minerally and lifted, this is already irresistible.” 
—Christine Canterbury, Tim Atkin Burgundy Special Report 95 Points

“80% comes from the famous 1911 planting. This has an excellent bouquet, the age of the vines is disguising anything vegetal in the Aligoté. Superb purity and density across the palate, a tingling limestone freshness at the back and excellent persistence. Nothing blocky about this, a good year for Monts Luisants. A touch of almond paste at the finish.” 
—Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy 92-95 Points

“Aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon and freshly baked bread introduce the 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, taut and inactive wine that’s racy and concentrated, concluding with a long, mineral finish.” 
—William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 92-94 Points

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彭寿酒庄蒙特-路伊森莫雷圣丹尼一级园老藤干白葡萄酒 Domaine Ponsot Morey St Denis Blanc 1er Cru Monts Luisants

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